Off-Track Garage Door Reset: what the visit covers

A reset is different from a track repair, although one visit can include both. Resetting means returning the rollers, cables and sections to the path the track already defines and correcting the small misalignments that let them leave it. Track repair means the rail itself is bent, crushed or torn from the jamb and must be re-formed or replaced before anything can ride on it. The technician looks at the door and tells you which situation you have. Many doors need only a reset with a few new rollers; a door hit by a vehicle often needs a length of new track as well.

Cables, drums and the shape of the drop

Both lifting cables are traced from the bottom brackets up to their drums. The technician looks for a cable hanging in a loop, wound crossed on its drum, frayed near the bottom bracket where salt collects, or missing altogether. The drums are checked for set screws that have slipped on the shaft. If one side of the door sits lower, the cable on that side is nearly always the reason, and the springs will have to be handled before the door can be levelled. Finding this early keeps the reset from becoming a series of surprises once the rollers are back in.

Taking the weight off before moving anything

Nothing is pulled or lifted while the door is loaded. On a torsion door the technician may wind the spring tension down with winding bars fitted to the cones, working one quarter turn at a time with the set screws controlled, so the sections can be moved without the springs snatching them. On an extension-spring door the load comes off by raising the door fully and securing it, which relaxes the springs. Clamps and props hold every section in place throughout. With the load off, a section that seemed immovable can be shifted a few centimetres by hand, which is all that is needed to bring a roller back.

Keeping the opener honest

The opener leaves the visit re-taught to the trued door, and a monthly test keeps it that way. Lay a piece of wood about 1.5 inches thick flat on the floor in the door's path and close the door from the wall button: it must touch the block and reverse. Then start the door closing again and pass an object through the photo-eye beam near the floor: it must stop and go back up. If either test fails, unhook the door from the opener and operate it by hand until it has been looked at. A door that reverses properly is one that stops before it can rack itself against an obstruction.